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I was the first and only one in the water until two travellers paddled out a couple of hours later. The next day the swell grew and word spread, swelling the numbers to about six. Six guys spread over 2km at 4-5ft, more often running back out than actually in the water was not hard to take. As the swell dropped over the coming days I went solo around the point a bit further and found a whole new set up with literally nobody except weird fishermen and more swell. Pacasmayo, 50km north, was pumping but on Public Transport in Peru, 50km takes 3 hours with 24 people, chickens, dogs and hay bales crammed in a Toyota Hiace. Between Machu Picchu and Chicama, Peru delivered perfection - perfect mountains, perfect feelings and perfect waves. We were now on our way to Costa Rica. |
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SURFING FEATURES
SNOWBOARDING
HAVE YOUR SAY
SWELL
SURF ATLAS
IN BRIEF |
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